Japanese design has a quite distinctive look that at first can be hard to put your finger on.
However, after a while you begin to realise that part of the aesthetic, whether it is in furnishings, fashion, modern culture or fine art, is down to the colour palette and the way these colours work together. It’s one of the things that makes Japanese design stand apart from other design styles.
Many cultures associate particular emotions or symbolic meanings with certain colours and this is true in Japan. However, more than that, the shades and tones that you see in both traditional and modern Japanese design have historical roots and a connection to the environment.
What distinguishes this Japanese palette?
Traditional Japanese colours have an interesting history that is deeply tied to cultural and aesthetic principles.
As such these roots align with the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, the appreciation of imperfection and transience, and also blends with Zen principles of promoting simplicity and balance.
Colours like faded greens, muted browns and dusty purples are valued for their subtlety and beauty and the colours are frequently given names that reflect their natural origins, for example: sakura-iro, a cherry blossom pink, and the watery blue-green of mizuasagi.
Known collectively as ‘wagara’, these traditional Japanese colours often feature muted, earthy tones instead of bright, saturated hues which gives them a calm, understated elegance and aesthetic unity.
Colours inspired by nature
The shades of colour in this Japanese palette are often inspired by nature and the seasons, reflecting seasonal elements like spring blossoms, autumn foliage and the colours of seasonal plants.
Some poetic examples are kuchiba (fallen leaf brown), usu-midori (a pale green inspired by young leaves) and enji-iro (the deep burgundy of autumn leaves). There are many more that refer to the likes of fresh spring shoots and the colours of fruits, seeds and vegetables.
Natural pigments and dyes
In addition to these names directly rooted in nature, there are colours associated with traditional Japanese crafts with many of the names originating from artisanal skills and occupations. Natural dyes and textiles, brewing and fermenting plus the raw materials used in weaving, pottery, art and construction all inspire shades of colour in the wagara colour palette.
For example, the earthy tone of kurikawa, a chestnut brown, derives from natural clays and iron-rich soils. Amazake-iro is a soft beige colour named after a type of sweet sake that you might have drunk at a festival in Japan.
Wagara colours are deeply tied to traditional Japanese arts and crafts such as kimono design, ceramics and ukiyo-e woodblock prints. The choice of colours in these crafts often mirrors those seen in nature and is intended to evoke a sense of harmony.
Textiles and fashion
Many colours were historically influenced by the Heian and Edo periods when more advanced dying techniques became available and court fashion and samurai culture began to shape their significance.
In fact, the Heian period (794–1185) marked the beginning of Japan’s sophisticated use of colour in fashion, where kasane no irome, or layered colour combinations, became a prominent feature in court dress. These colour layers reflected seasonal themes and were achieved using natural dyes. And it was during the Edo period that techniques like yūzen dyeing expanded the use of intricate, multi-coloured patterns on fabrics, further increasing the cultural importance of colour.
A rainbow of muted, natural colours
Of course, there are many thousands of traditional Japanese colours in all kinds of shades and hues but I thought it would be fun to pick out seven interesting shades to make up a ‘rainbow’ of wagara colours.
I’ve added a little about each colour’s origins and uses to highlight their meanings in Japanese culture and connection to nature.
In the same way that no one can give you a definitive colour reference for ‘sky blue’ or ‘vermillion red’, rather than giving a colour swatch I’ve tried to show examples of what each colour embodies and the origin of its name.
Here’s my personal rainbow of Japanese wagara colours.
Red: Benihi (紅緋)
Benihi is a bright, warm red, slightly muted compared to modern primary reds and is derived from safflower dye (benibana). It’s often used in traditional garments and associated with celebration and vitality.
This rich red is also used prominently in ukiyo-e woodblock prints, often to depict vibrant clothing or sunset skies. For example, Hokusai's famous 'Red Fuji' uses a deep red hue to emphasize the majesty of Mount Fuji during sunrise.
Orange - Kohaku (琥珀)
For orange, I have chosen a dark amber known as ‘kohaku’. This soft amber-orange colour represents warmth and longevity and is inspired by the translucent, golden tones of fossilized resin.
It’s found in lacquerware and is also tied to autumn harvest festivals, or Aki Matsuri, where decorations include pumpkins, persimmons and golden leaves.
Yellow - Kikuchiba (黄朽葉)
Kikuchiba is a muted yellow, resembling the colour of fallen ginkgo leaves in autumn. It is created from gardenia fruit or turmeric.
This shade appears in kimono designs inspired by fallen leaves, particularly in the kosode patterns of the Edo period. The yellow-brown tones evoke a sense of transience and seasonal change.
During Momiji Matsuri (autumn leaf festivals), the fallen ginkgo leaves that inspired this colour are celebrated in parks and temples, with paths blanketed in golden-yellow.
Green - Byakuroku (白緑)
Byakuroku is a pale, whitish green reflecting young bamboo or fresh spring leaves.
These pale greens can be found in kakejiku (hanging scrolls) depicting spring landscapes or bamboo groves and are often used in kimono designs to symbolize growth and renewal.
At Aoi Matsuri in Kyoto, green-leaf garlands are worn by participants, connecting this colour to nature and Shinto rituals.
Blue - Asagi (浅葱)
This mid-blue shade is common in aizome textiles, fabrics that are dyed in a traditional way using indigo and other natural dyes. It might be used for yukata, light summer kimono, and noren curtains commonly seen decorating doorways.
The soft, watery blue reflects Japan's coastal and river landscapes but its name comes from the colour of the leaves of leek or negi onion plants. Its subtle coolness is refreshing and calming.
During the Tanabata Star Festival, decorative streamers and ornaments in light blues and greens symbolize the Milky Way and celestial wishes.
Indigo - Ai (藍)
Ai-iro is the deep, rich blue colour, derived from the Japanese ai indigo plant.
Today we are all familiar with indigo as a dark blue colour for denim but in Japan natural hand-dyed indigo colour is much prized and regularly seen in clothing, noren curtains, furoshiki and many other fabric items.
Samurai wore indigo-dyed clothing, both for practicality and because it was believed to have insect-repellent properties. It is also often seen in traditional happi coats worn by festival participants as it symbolizes endurance and tradition.
Violet - Murasaki (紫)
Murasaki is a soft, dusky purple colour extracted from the gromwell plant (murasaki). Historically it’s a noble colour that is associated with the imperial court.
In past times, purple was reserved for the Japanese aristocracy and was used for Heian-era junihitoe,12-layered ceremonial robes. Scrolls like The Tale of Genji showcase violet shades in delicate floral illustrations.
Today, purple is used in the elegant decorations of the Gion Matsuri floats and in the silk cords of ceremonial items.
That concludes my little journey through a Japanese wagara rainbow.
As you can see from the inspiration behind these colours and shades, the traditional Japanese palette embodies a deep respect for nature and artisanal craft.
Many colours have fascinating connections to Japanese art, festivals and culture and I hope you agree that the natural origins add a beautiful depth that ties the colours to Japan's landscape and traditional craftsmanship.